Oyster stocks have plunged in the Chesapeake. This resident wants to bring them back: NPR


John Consoli marvels at the oysters. “I think I'm more excited about something that looks like a rock than anyone else could be,” he says.

John Consoli marvels at the oysters. “I think I’m more excited about something that looks like a rock than anyone else could be,” he says.

Ari Daniel/NPR


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Ari Daniel/NPR

John Consoli stands at the edge of his pier, which juts from the southern tip of Kent Island, Maryland, to the Chesapeake Bay. He bends down and hoists a mesh the size and shape of a pillowcase out of the water.

It’s full of oysters. He manages to get him onto the pier. “These are brand new oysters from this year,” he says. “When I received them, they weighed nothing. And it’s only been three months of growth. The net is bursting at the seams, I can barely bring it up.”

Once he catches his breath, Consoli marvels at these molluscs. “I think I’m more excited about something that looks like a rock than anyone else could be,” he says with a big smile. “I really can’t think of many more creatures that do the same good as oysters.”

Oysters are the foundation of the Chesapeake coastal and estuarine ecosystem. Each adult filters up to 50 gallons of water per day. Cleaner water leads to a healthier bay and more seagrass. “It helps crabs and other organisms,” Consoli says.

Additionally, oyster shells are a habitat in themselves. “Because of all the nooks and crannies,” he explains, “lots of small fish and crabs live, feed and hide among them, which creates an environment rich in biodiversity. I even found a seahorse, which was amazing. I’ve never seen a seahorse in my life!”

Robots searching for oysters

Oyster reefs once abounded in the Chesapeake, but overharvesting has decimated their ranks — by more than 99 percent in 2011, according to one estimate. This monumental change in the bay has contributed to poorer water quality and a decrease in habitat for other species.

Oyster farming in the Chesapeake has grown in recent years, despite environmental and health challenges, says Ryan Carnegie, a biologist at the Virginia Institute of Marine Science. He adds that wild oysters have also made a partial comeback, helped by better management and investments in restoration. But, says Elizabeth North, a fisheries oceanographer at the University of Maryland Center for Environmental Sciences, “current oyster populations are probably still only a fraction of these historical populations.”

Consoli’s goal is therefore to be a sort of guardian, supplying the bay with more and more oysters and ensuring their well-being. He floats them just below the surface, where he says nutrients are concentrated to help them grow quickly. And even though its oysters aren’t intended for consumption, a cleaner bay means a better habitat for those that are harvested commercially.

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